This one is the so-called esterified version. This increases Glyceryl Stearate's affinity for water and gives it stronger emulsifying abilities. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! It does smell nice but the problem is that it oxidizes on air exposure and the resulting stuff is not good for the skin. As for skincare, it makes the skin silky smooth, creates a subtle gloss and forms a protective barrier (aka occlusive). It’s safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. Anti-wrinkle day cream. A helper ingredient that helps to make the products stay nice longer, aka preservative. Have suggestions, comments? One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Limonene's nr1 function is definitely being a fragrance component, but there are several studies showing that it's also a penetration enhancer, mainly for oil-loving components. A common multi-tasker fatty acid that works as an emollient, thickener and emulsion stabilizer. Geraniol is a common fragrance ingredient. All in all, cocoa butter is a goodie, especially for very dry skin. It’s one of the “EU 26 fragrances” that has to be labelled separately (and cannot be simply included in the term “fragrance/perfume”. A fragrance with a sweet scent somewhere between lily and fruity melon. A helper ingredient that functions as a film-forming polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits). It is typically used in tiny amounts, around 0.1% or even less. It can also draw water to the skin (thank you, pendant glycerol groups! Second, they contain the problematic compounds called furanocoumarins that make them mildly phototoxic. The downside of it is that it oxidises on air exposure and might become allergenic. Citronellol is a very common fragrance ingredient with a nice rose-like odor. Combined with polyacrylate-13 and polysorbate 20, it forms a very effective tickener-emulsifier trio. As for hair care, it is a non-volatile silicone meaning that it stays on the hair rather than evaporates from it and smoothes the hair like no other thing. A preservative that works mainly against fungi. It’s the number one cause of contact allergy to cosmetics. Also, it can help to increase the solubility of some other ingredients in the formula. There is no known anti-aging or positive skin benefits of the ingredient. Other than that, it’s a nice emollient that gives a smooth and soft appearance to the skin. It’s one of the “EU 26 fragrances” that has to be labelled separately (and cannot be simply included in the term “fragrance/perfume” on the label) because of allergen potential. In the UK, it’s actually the third most often listed perfume on the ingredient lists. The essential oil coming from the rind of the lemon. Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream is formulated with the incredible marine extract padina pavonica. An ex-vivo (made on human skin but not on real people) study examined the cocoa polyphenols and found that 0.5-0.75% of them improved skin tone and elasticity and had a similarly positive impact on GAGs (important natural moisturizing factors in the skin) and collagen synthesis than a commercial high-end moisturizer (it was an Estee Lauder one). A common fragrance ingredient with a nice rose-like smell. Oxidized limonene can cause allergic contact dermatitis and counts as a frequent skin sensitizer. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. I only used this once and it was more than enough. Good old water, aka H2O. This is called self-emulsifying and SE in its name stands for that. As for skincare, cocoa butter counts as a rich emollient that can moisturize and nourish even the driest skin (think chapped hands or lips). According to famous dermatologist, Leslie Baumann while tocopheryl acetate is more stable and has a longer shelf life, it’s also more poorly absorbed by the skin and may not have the same awesome photoprotective effects as pure Vit E. A common multi-tasker fatty acid. It also works as a thickening agent (remember, it is a carbomer type of molecule), and can provide the skin with a nice slippery feel. Be careful with it especially if it is in a product for daytime use. If you see potassium sorbate you should see some other preservative next to it too. Citric acid comes from citrus fruits and is an AHA. It’s approved by Ecocert and also used in the food industry (E415). Cette crème de jour anti-âge phare Best to avoid if your skin is sensitive. It’s not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. It is created by macerating the carrot root in a carrier oil such as sunflower or olive oil, and the resulting thing (base oil + carrot root extract) is often called carrot oil or carrot root oil. If these magic three letters don’t tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA. So, the triglyceride molecules are the saponifiable part of the oil, and the rest is the unsaponifiable part. The smell was so Get in touch! There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use (think three months and 20% concentration) can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. For that to happen, there has to be water in the product and the right pH value (pH 3-4). Like crazy stable. It is a famous molecule for being a potent antioxidant, suntan accelerator and having skin-regenerative abilities. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. Compared to the pure form it's more stable, has longer shelf life, but it's also more poorly absorbed by the skin. At first glance, it seems like your average emollient plant oil: it looks like an oil and it's nourishing and moisturizing to the skin but if we dig a bit deeper, it turns out that jojoba oil is really special and unique: technically - or rather chemically - it's not an oil but a wax ester (and calling it an oil is kind of sloppy). Though chemically speaking, it is alcohol (as in, it has an -OH group in its molecule), its properties are totally different from the properties of low molecular weight or drying alcohols such as denat. Pretty much the current IT-preservative. That’s why a product containing linalool that has been opened for several months is more likely to be allergenic than a fresh one. Choose your preferred country & currency below to personalize your experience. 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